Dogs: Barking

Why do dogs bark?

The presence of unwanted and inappropriate barking is one of the most common complaints of dog owners and their neighbours! Up to a third of noise complaints to local Councils of some areas concern disturbances by dogs. But barking is a natural form of canine communication. It can serve as a warning signal and alarm to others and dogs may also vocalise when excited, when separated from their social group, or when they are experiencing times of indecision, anxiety, or frustration. If you think there is a problem with your dog’s barking then it is important to establish why it is behaving in this way. You also need to know that your dog is actually barking and distinguish it from other forms of vocalization, such as howling or yelping, that have different motivations. Medical problems, such as pain or the onset of senility in older dogs, can sometimes contribute to vocalisation and it is therefore important to get your dog checked over by your veterinarian, if the onset is unexpected.

How can barking problems be prevented?

Socialisation and habituation — If you can introduce young puppies to as many new people, animals, situations and noises as possible, thenhe will be less likely to become aroused by them later in life. This will minimise the amount or intensity of alarm barking since the dog is less likely to perceive a threat in novel situations and encounters. 

In order to prevent barking from becoming a problem, it is useful if it is only used to alert owners and then is controlled and stopped before the dog becomes agitated and out of control. Increasing the quality of communication between the dog and the owner through reward based training will help to achieve this level of control.

Vocalisation can occur as a result of separation related problems and it is therefore important to train your dog from an early age to be left alone. This is done by gradually getting the dog used to short periods of time without you, before it is necessary to leave him for longer periods of time. Two dogs can sometimes help to provide company for each other and reduce distress vocalisation and departure problems, but this is not always the case and if both dogs become distressed the noise nuisance is going to be doubled.

It is always essential to determine the underlying motivation for any vocalisation so that appropriate treatment or management options can be offered.

My dog constantly barks. What does it want?

Attention seeking barking can be problematic and is often reinforced by owners responding to the behaviour in some way. Opening the door to let a barking dog in from the garden, or feeding, patting, praising, playing with, giving a toy, or even just going to a barking dog to try to quieten it, are just a few examples of how an owner may unknowingly reinforce barking. It is important not to reward this sort of barking with any type of attention or reward. Ignoring the behaviour, or simply walking away, may be an appropriate response but it is important to consider the underlying reason for the barking. If the dog is barking because of an underlying emotional need then simply ignoring him could increase his insecurity or induce frustration. The important aim is to reward lack of barking and to make sure that when vocalization ceases the dog receives a clear signal that this was a good decision.

How can I train my dog to be 'quiet'?

Training a dog to a "quiet" command is an invaluable aid for controlling undesirable barking. You need to find an effective means of quietening the dog, which should be preceded with a verbal cue such as “quiet”. Just loudly telling your pet to "be quiet", will not be understood and is likely to increase arousal which will be counterproductive:

• One practical technique for teaching a dog to cease barking on cue, is first, to be able to ask the dog to begin barking on cue. Use a stimulus that will cause your dog to bark and pair it with "bark" or “speak”as the verbal cue. Numerous repetitions allow your dog to associate the word with the action. Now that the bark is available on cue, it is easier to turn it off by giving  "hush" or "quiet" as a cue just as the barking subsides, and while removing the trigger stimulus. As soon as your dog is quiet, give a treat or reward. For example you can show the dog a treat and induce a level of arousal which results in vocalisation, the treat is then withdrawn and when the dog is quiet, the “quiet” cue is given and the treat offered. Alternatively instead of withdrawing the treat you could move it to just in front of the dog’s nose. As it sniffs the barking should stop since he cannot sniff and bark at the same time, and you can use this opportunity to give the “quiet” cue and then release the treat to the dog,
• Another method to teach a "quiet" cue is to wait until your dog is barking spontaneously, for example to a doorbell; and then while he is barking, place a very tasty food treat by his nose. As he sniffs say the word you will use your cue for quiet, such as “silent”, “hush” etc. and release the treat. Again, as with all new tasks, numerous repetitions are necessary to reinforce the learning.

With both of the above techniques it is important to remove the food lure as soon as is practical (although still follow up with the reward after he stops barking) so that the food itself does not become a reward for barking.

• In some situations you may find that distraction is necessary to disrupt the barking. A non-punishment means of interrupting barking and asking for “quiet” is with a remote lead and head collar. A gentle pull on the lead disrupts the dog and closes the mouth. Releasing the pressure can then reinforce quiet behaviour and then a reinforcer such as gentle, quiet praise or food can be given if your dog remains quiet. In some cases it can help to combine this exercise with  “down”, “lie down” or “drop” as the verbal cue.

What are my chances of correcting my dog's barking problem?

The outlook is usually good for most barking problems but in some cases the household situation in which the dog resides may make it extremely difficult to correct completely. Even a small amount of barking could disturb a sleeping baby, or upset neighbours, (particularly in flats or townhouses). When trying to resolve barking problems, identification of motivating factors is important. Some stimuli are so strong that it will be difficult to stop the barking behaviour directly and a form of desensitisation may be required.

What can I do to correct my dog's barking problem?

The treatment program must be based on the type of problem, your household, the urgency of the situation, and the type and level of control that you require. A good behavioural history is important to determine cause, motivation and potential reinforcing stimuli for the barking behaviour. Treatment or management plans need to consider the following:

1.  Try not to reward your dog inadvertently. Some owners in an attempt to calm their dog down, will actually encourage the barking by giving attention, play, food or affection.

2.  Sometimes the home environment can be modified so that the dog is kept away from the stimuli (sounds and sights) that cause barking. Exposure might be minimised by confining your dog to a crate (which requires some pre-training) or room away from doors and windows, alternatively windows might be covered so that the dog cannot look outside. Solid private fencing may be helpful for some outside dogs. Dogs that bark when left alone outdoors may have to be kept indoors except when the owner is available to supervise. Trigger sounds such as doorbells or telephones that might have become conditioned stimuli for barking should be altered to change their sound or perhaps be switched off on a temporary basis. 

"Sometimes the home environment can be modified so that the dog is kept away from the stimuli (sounds and sights) that cause barking."

3.  Until effective control is established, training programs are unlikely to be successful. Increasing interactive play periods, checking that your dog has the right balance of diet and exercise, or crate and confinement training, head collar training and obedience classes may all be  needed before bark control training can really begin in earnest.

4.  Once you have sufficient control and the dog responds to verbal cues and handling, it should be possible to train your dog to cease barking on cue as described above. Regardless of the technique, rewards should be given as soon as the barking stops, so that the dog learns that quiet behaviour earns rewards. It is most important to associate silence with the verbal cue used.

5.  Once your have sufficient control through training and teaching the quiet cue it may then be possible to begin a retraining program in the presence of the stimuli (people, other dogs) that lead to barking. The stimulus should first be presented in a mild form to the dog from a distance (e.g. children riding bicycles slowly on the street while the dog stands well back), and the dog given a quiet or sit-stay cue. You should then quietly interact with your dog, to keep his focus on you while the stimulus passes. Although a head collar and lead is generally all that is required to control the dog and achieve the appropriate response, your dog can also be interrupted using a remote distraction if that should prove to be necessary. However it is important that the distraction is not aversive to the dog in any way. Training sessions are then repeated and the intensity of the stimulus is very gradually increased. This type of training can be effective, but progress can be slow and time consuming.

6.  Dogs that are barking for reasons other than high arousal, e.g. fear, or separation distress will require treatment for the underlying problem. You should see your veterinarian as soon as possible and referral to a veterinary behaviourist may be required.

Should I punish my dog when it keeps barking?

Punishment is seldom effective in the control and correction of barking problems. Excessive levels of punishment can increase anxiety and further aggravate many forms of barking, while mild punishment can merely reward the behaviour by providing attention.

What are anti-barking collars and how do they work?

Bark-activated collars are rarely necessary when dealing with barking problems and should only ever be used after professional evaluation of the problem. They are not a quick fix, and if they are just left on the dog, to self-train it, they are rarely effective in the long term and may actually increase the severity of the problem or lead to other behaviour problems developing.. 

The biggest problem with these devices, be they noise collars i.e. audible, ultrasonic training collars or those that emit a hiss of air or spray of citronella or other scent each time the dog barks, is that at low settings they are often not sufficiently aversive to be a reliable deterrent, and if they are at settings that are high enough to be aversive you need to give consideration to the potential emotional consequences of their use, especially if the dog has an underlying anxiety disorder. For similar reasons electric pulse collars are not recommended and are illegal to be used in some jurisdictions in Australia.

Bark activated collars of any sort should not be used in anxiety or fear-related barking. 

Bark collars only work when they are on the dog. Most dogs will learn to distinguish when the collar is on and when it is off. When they are not wearing the collar, most dogs will continue to bark which indicates that the collar is not solving the problem but merely suppressing the signs. Additional behavioural modification is required to teach your dog to quieten and not react vocally to certain stimuli and therefore this should be the basis of the treatment for such cases from the beginning.